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Thread: DM-132E help

  1. #1
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    DM-132E help

    Im having some issues figuring out what to hook the varspd stuff to on my LED drivers. Attached are pictures.







    The problem is in order to turn the unit off, it appears to need 10-12v on the on/off pin. the 0-10v pin appears to be analog as i rotate the pot, but im just not seeing where i need to hook up the varspd connections to. Maybe you have run across this guy before and can help me, my google fu is weak and all i see are the models with the 4 pin dimmer lead coming from the driver. Model is a reef radiance dm-132e.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    You would need unplug both wires 0-10V and GND from the dimming pot. Then splice V1+ into 0-10V and splice V1- into GND. Before you do that though, can you take a resistance measurement between 0-10V and GND to make sure the VDM won't get damaged by doing so? You may need to have a 3 way node between wherever the GND wire goes, the V1-, and the connection that says GND, but I can be certain without seeing a schematic. Leave enough wire on that connection that you can 3 way splice if need be.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    You would need unplug both wires 0-10V and GND from the dimming pot. Then splice V1+ into 0-10V and splice V1- into GND. Before you do that though, can you take a resistance measurement between 0-10V and GND to make sure the VDM won't get damaged by doing so? You may need to have a 3 way node between wherever the GND wire goes, the V1-, and the connection that says GND, but I can be certain without seeing a schematic. Leave enough wire on that connection that you can 3 way splice if need be.
    I tried to PM you directly since it seemed you were the most knowledgeable. Do you mean unplugging the GND and 0-10V from the whole board with the pot, or taking the entire pot itself off? Ill post a picture later when i take apart the light again. I put it back together because i was afraid to lose something or forget how it goes together.

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    My inbox is probably full, but it's better to discuss in public anyway to help others doing something similar.

    The 0-10V, GND, and ON/OFF all use the same connector, so you will want to keep that connector plugged in. What you will need to do is cut the wires that go to 0-10V and GND (leave yourself about an inch in case something doesn't work and you need to splice them back together). Then electrical tape the end of the side that connects to the pot board so they cant short. Then you will either need to solder/shrinkwrap, or butt splice the V1 connection to the side of the wire that goes to the lights. Then you will need to connect V1- to the GND wire on the side that goes to the lights, and may also need to tie in the side that goes to the pot board (that part could go either way)

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    Gotcha, I will try to get you a pic of the back of the board later today. I dont have the apex yet to test it, bought it used from a friend and he hasnt taken his tank down yet.

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    K. If you haven't got one yet, you will need one of these.

    https://www.neptunesystems.com/produ...ble-2-channel/

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    Hopefully this is clear enough.

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    Can someone else add tags, i reached my limit.

    NL80w-750, nl, led, dimmer, vdm

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    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    I was referring to here.


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    Yeah, i thought you meant you needed to see the board to see if I would have to do the 3 way type setup. I disconnected those two wires, and upon doing so, whenever the driver gets power its on at 100%, no matter what the pot is set to, so i may need to do something with that third wire.

    Did some testing, when i try to measure the resistance between the ground and 0-10v wire when the unit is off, i get 1. which is o/l on my multimeter. I tried with the red lead on the 0-10v wire and the black lead on the ground, then switched them and got the same result. With the driver getting power, i get o/l when i connect the red lead of the meter to 0-10v and the black to ground, but if i connect the black lead to 0-10v and the red lead to ground, i get 15ohms and the unit appears to dim to the lowest setting. Everything else has it at 100%. The pot does not have any affect on it with those two wires disconnected (obviously)

    pictures



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    Ok, my friend finally got the apex to me, and i was able to test the dimming and it appears to be working. This is my first time messing with anything apex related, but it appears to be working correctly, as when I turn the port off, it goes to the dimmest setting, and on, it goes to the brightest setting. Is there any way to get the dimming to make it go off completely, or should i just attempt to program the eb8 outlet for the light to shut off/on when i need it?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P3KbCK4HG4

  12. #12
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    More than likely, you will need to use an EB8 outlet to shut it off completely

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    Its working like a charm man, thanks for your help. I think i was confused at first because i didnt realize the voltage was inverse from the brightness. I was thinking 0v should be off and 10v should be full brightness. Hopefully these tags help other people find this in the future. Ill post more pics when my ethernet jacks come in and i mount them in the case. Ordered these, one for each light.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/361010130698...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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    Quote Originally Posted by tabasco122 View Post
    Its working like a charm man, thanks for your help. I think i was confused at first because i didnt realize the voltage was inverse from the brightness. I was thinking 0v should be off and 10v should be full brightness. Hopefully these tags help other people find this in the future. Ill post more pics when my ethernet jacks come in and i mount them in the case. Ordered these, one for each light.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/361010130698...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Do you happen to have a pic of the wires after you spliced them all together. I have the same fixture and am doing the same thing and wanted to make sure I was doing it right. Did you have to splice the pot back in? or did you leave it disconnected?

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    The pot is still connected to the one unused wire, not sure if it makes a difference. I will post up pics when i get a chance. I got the ethernet jacks in, just havent cut a hole in the case of the light yet.

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    I bought the jacks as well and was going to see how you accomplished cutting through the case. I was gonna drill at the corners and then use a coping saw to cut in between them

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    Dont have access to a lot of power tools, so i was going to use a drill and small files to try and get the opening square.

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    Would like to see picks as well

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

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    Completely forgot to take pics. Sorry! Here is the best i can do. The top two wires are cut off and taped on the connector side. Leave the third wire connected. The driver side goes to the ethernet cable. striped wire on driver side goes to solid color on ethernet, and the white wire on driver goes to the striped color on the ethernet.






  20. #20
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    Before





    After




    Took a lot of work with a drill bit and files, but it looks decent. The other light is going to be a pain since im currently using it over my biocube.

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