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Thread: Apex for my 800 gallon Dd

  1. #1
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    Apex for my 800 gallon Dd

    Good evening. I just got my large display tank set up and am wanting to start an apex setup for automation. It took me a while to get my head around how the system works but I think I have it figured out- you plug in the various devices into the Apex power strips and the controller turns individual plus on and off.

    this way you can turn on and off items in sequence. Turn on lights at 8 am, turn off pumps at 9 am, turn on auto feeder, then turn pumps back on after 30 minutes.

    makes sense and I finally got it. My question however relates to how the control module communicates with the power strips. Do the power strips need to be physically connected to the main module? My filtration is in my fish room which is 70 feet away. And if they don't need to be physically connected, do you connect them via wifi or do you need Ethernet?

    im trying to plan out the system and eventual system and I'd rather get my plan correct right from the get go instead of having a hodge lodge of controllers over time.

    appreciate the response and looking forward to learning and implementing the system.

  2. #2
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    They all daisy chain together threw what looks like a usb cable ( but it's NOT a regular usb) I also have my equipment room about 100 ft away and all I did was used phone line and split cable in half and added in what I needed mines underground and I haven't had any problems been that way for months There's also a company that makes apex cables up to 100 ft if you not a cut and splice person

  3. #3
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    They need to be physically connected, but they can be daisy chained. Only one cable needs to go between the head unit and the fish room and all other modules in the fish room can connect to each other.

    You will need a USB cable with no repeaters and quality insulation for the long run. USBfirewire.com makes cables specifically for this application.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    They need to be physically connected, but they can be daisy chained. Only one cable needs to go between the head unit and the fish room and all other modules in the fish room can connect to each other.

    You will need a USB cable with no repeaters and quality insulation for the long run. USBfirewire.com makes cables specifically for this application.

    dang- this might not work as my lights are above the tank and I have no way of running cable to the lights from the fish room.

    I have a conduit but the panel would be under the tank.

    Can you set up 2 controllers? one in the fish room to control auto top off, skimmer pumps, return pumps etc and then a second module in the tank itself to control the lights and powerheads?

    My other option would be to run an apex in the sump room to control all the stuff there and a second apex control unit to control my radions and powerheads. Is that even possible?

  5. #5
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    You can't just run a single cable along your return line to get between the fish room and the tank?

  6. #6
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    zz243.JPGAs I mentioned, I can get a wire between fish room and tank but I cant get from bottom of tank to top of tank. Lights and ballast is at the top of tank. Conduit is at bottom.

    attached is a picture of my tank- 360 degree viewable.

  7. #7
    Frequent Contributor Alain B's Avatar
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    If you have radions and vortech pumps , all you need is to set up the WXM module near the tank , not farther then 20 to 25 feets and you will be able to control them . As far as powering those , connecting their power supplies to a 110 volt power source will suffice . However the WXM need an aquabus connection to the controller .
    Alain

  8. #8
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    You can use two apex units, but you wouldn't be able to link the states of the outlets between each apex (you can still program for correct timings and whatnot). Another option is to run it through the wall, drop it down from the ceiling, and install female USB Jacks on both ends.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alain B View Post
    If you have radions and vortech pumps , all you need is to set up the WXM module near the tank , not farther then 20 to 25 feets and you will be able to control them . As far as powering those , connecting their power supplies to a 110 volt power source will suffice . However the WXM need an aquabus connection to the controller .

    so I don't need to physically connect the radion to the wxm? this might work.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Honestly,

    what I would really love is to hire someone who knows their stuff on apex and set up the system for me.

  10. #10
    Frequent Contributor Alain B's Avatar
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    Radions and Ecotech wave pumps DO NOT need to be connected physically to the WXM . However the WXM need to be connected to the Apex .
    Alain

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alain B View Post
    Radions and Ecotech wave pumps DO NOT need to be connected physically to the WXM . However the WXM need to be connected to the Apex .

    and how far can the wxm be from the radions?

    and I have tunze turbelles right now. will those connect?

  12. #12
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Tunze need the tunze stream cable connected between them and either the base unit or a VDM. WXM can be about 20 feet away, but I would shoot for closer if a wall or floor is in between.

  13. #13
    Frequent Contributor Alain B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Socaltoaz View Post
    and how far can the wxm be from the radions?
    On one build , i was able to get a reliable connection up to 30' . With Tunze you are limited to a wire connection , not very far .
    Alain

  14. #14
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    So I just checked with the plumber and I can run a 100 foot cable from fish room to the bottom of the tank. We ran an extra conduit for such a thing- go figure. I didnt even know. So I can put the wxm below the tank and physically connect it to base unit to control the lighting. I would need to change my tunze to ecotech pumps or get the new neptune pumps. I think I am getting this figured out.

    Thank you everyone for your help.

  15. #15
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    The WAV has a single small wire that goes between the pump and the 1link, so you would need to find a way to get aquabus to a 1link up top for that to work. Perhaps a PVC conduit running between the top and bottom in the overflow.

  16. #16
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    So I made a list of tasks I wanted to accomplish with my system. Please know that my fish room is away from the tank. Ive listed a set of tasks to start my automation process. If you guys were in my shoes, what else would you want to accomplish with the automation? I want to properly plan this out before buying equipment as I want to have a roadmap of where I want to end up. your expert feedback is greatly appreciated. I completely understand that this will evolve over time- I just want to make sure that Im not missing anything out of the starting gate:

    Fish Tank

    • Turn lights on and off- set various programs - glow in the dark, 100% for photos, various colors for parties, christmas etc.
    • Turn powerheads on and off- set various flow programs - vary the speed and duration to vary flow in the tank
    • Turn on automatic feeding system - at this time turn off skimmer, turn off return pumps
    • water temp probe- is this necessary since water in sump and tank should be same?
    • float switch at the tank to determine water level- adjust the flow of the return pumps automatically - if water level gets too low, increase return pump, if water level gets too high, decrease return pump (this is probably better done by controlling sump level?)


    I don’t know what else I would want to do at the tank?



    Fish Room

    • Control 2 pumps for media reactor - turn on and off as needed without having to unplug
    • Salinity probe - when salinity is too high > turn on automatic top off unit > pump water into sump from RO holding tank
    • PH probe
    • Temperature probe - if water gets too cold- turn on heater
    • Water change > Drain set amount of water > turn on pump to pump mixed salt water into tank
    • Turn on wiper inside protein skimmer once a day automatically
    • float switch to turn skimmer off if water level gets too high in the sump
    • float switch to increase return pump rate if water level gets too high
    • float switch to decrease return pumps off if water level gets too low
    • float switch to turn on ATO if water level gets too low





    Items to buy:



    • Apex Gold
    • WXM module
    • EB8 X2
    • Break out Box - to monitor water level in sump
    • Startech nema 3>1 splitter X2 - to plug all the radions into 2 powerstrip plugs




    Am I missing anything?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    The WAV has a single small wire that goes between the pump and the 1link, so you would need to find a way to get aquabus to a 1link up top for that to work. Perhaps a PVC conduit running between the top and bottom in the overflow.
    my best bet is the wxm module to power the radions and vortex pumps and keep it below the tank.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Socaltoaz View Post
    So I made a list of tasks I wanted to accomplish with my system. Please know that my fish room is away from the tank. Ive listed a set of tasks to start my automation process. If you guys were in my shoes, what else would you want to accomplish with the automation? I want to properly plan this out before buying equipment as I want to have a roadmap of where I want to end up. your expert feedback is greatly appreciated. I completely understand that this will evolve over time- I just want to make sure that Im not missing anything out of the starting gate:

    Fish Tank

    • Turn lights on and off- set various programs - glow in the dark, 100% for photos, various colors for parties, christmas etc.
    • Turn powerheads on and off- set various flow programs - vary the speed and duration to vary flow in the tank
    • Turn on automatic feeding system - at this time turn off skimmer, turn off return pumps
    • water temp probe- is this necessary since water in sump and tank should be same?
    • float switch at the tank to determine water level- adjust the flow of the return pumps automatically - if water level gets too low, increase return pump, if water level gets too high, decrease return pump (this is probably better done by controlling sump level?)


    I don’t know what else I would want to do at the tank?



    Fish Room

    • Control 2 pumps for media reactor - turn on and off as needed without having to unplug
    • Salinity probe - when salinity is too high > turn on automatic top off unit > pump water into sump from RO holding tank
    • PH probe
    • Temperature probe - if water gets too cold- turn on heater
    • Water change > Drain set amount of water > turn on pump to pump mixed salt water into tank
    • Turn on wiper inside protein skimmer once a day automatically
    • float switch to turn skimmer off if water level gets too high in the sump
    • float switch to increase return pump rate if water level gets too high
    • float switch to decrease return pumps off if water level gets too low
    • float switch to turn on ATO if water level gets too low





    Items to buy:



    • Apex Gold
    • WXM module
    • EB8 X2
    • Break out Box - to monitor water level in sump
    • Startech nema 3>1 splitter X2 - to plug all the radions into 2 powerstrip plugs




    Am I missing anything?

    - - - Updated - - -



    my best bet is the wxm module to power the radions and vortex pumps and keep it below the tank.
    I would recommend an additional eb8 and breakout box. Don't forget about leak detector and sensors, a pm1 for added temp and ph/orp monitoring and pm2 for conductivity. With a beautiful setup you have already, I would go all out!

    Good luck and can't wait to see more pictures as you progress.


    Sent from my XT910 using Tapatalk

  18. #18
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    See comments below in red. If I didn't comment on something, it means you can easily do it with what you have listed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Socaltoaz View Post
    So I made a list of tasks I wanted to accomplish with my system. Please know that my fish room is away from the tank. Ive listed a set of tasks to start my automation process. If you guys were in my shoes, what else would you want to accomplish with the automation? I want to properly plan this out before buying equipment as I want to have a roadmap of where I want to end up. your expert feedback is greatly appreciated. I completely understand that this will evolve over time- I just want to make sure that Im not missing anything out of the starting gate:

    Fish Tank

    • Turn lights on and off- set various programs - glow in the dark, 100% for photos, various colors for parties, christmas etc.
    • Turn powerheads on and off- set various flow programs - vary the speed and duration to vary flow in the tank
    • Turn on automatic feeding system - at this time turn off skimmer, turn off return pumps


    If you are referring to the AFS module, that needs aquabus as well. this would need to be placed so food is directed into the return pump in the fish room to avoid a dry conduit through the overflow.



    • water temp probe- is this necessary since water in sump and tank should be same?


    measuring the temp in the sump is sufficient



    • float switch at the tank to determine water level- adjust the flow of the return pumps automatically - if water level gets too low, increase return pump, if water level gets too high, decrease return pump (this is probably better done by controlling sump level?)


    I wouldn't bother with this. to much room for catastrophic failure. you can put a float switch inside the overflow and use it to shut down your return and email you if water level gets too high (signifies clogged drain), but you will need to waterproof splice through the return line which could prove difficult.



    I don’t know what else I would want to do at the tank?



    Fish Room

    • Control 2 pumps for media reactor - turn on and off as needed without having to unplug
    • Salinity probe - when salinity is too high > turn on automatic top off unit > pump water into sump from RO holding tank

    Sounds good in theory, but is dangerous in practice. Use float switches to maintain sump water level. I would recommend a low level, maintain level, and emergency high level for good reliability and utility



    • PH probe
    • Temperature probe - if water gets too cold- turn on heater
    • Water change > Drain set amount of water > turn on pump to pump mixed salt water into tank


    A neptune DOS is much better suited for this than traditional pumps.



    • Turn on wiper inside protein skimmer once a day automatically
    • float switch to turn skimmer off if water level gets too high in the sump
    • float switch to increase return pump rate if water level gets too high


    I wouldnt bother with this. let your ATO maintain the water level



    • float switch to decrease return pumps off if water level gets too low

    This I would do to protect your pump from running dry


    • float switch to turn on ATO if water level gets too low
    • float switch to alert you if saltwater reservoir is low





    Items to buy:



    • Apex Gold
    • WXM module
    • EB8 X2
    • Break out Box - to monitor water level in sump
    • Startech nema 3>1 splitter X2 - to plug all the radions into 2 powerstrip plugs
    • 4x float switches (madison are the most reliable)
    • Neptune DOS
    • A UPS for the apex to get alerted if you lose power wouldnt hurt
    • A battery backup for the pumps would also be useful




    Am I missing anything?

    - - - Updated - - -



    my best bet is the wxm module to power the radions and vortex pumps and keep it below the tank.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Socaltoaz View Post
    zz243.JPGAs I mentioned, I can get a wire between fish room and tank but I cant get from bottom of tank to top of tank. Lights and ballast is at the top of tank. Conduit is at bottom.

    attached is a picture of my tank- 360 degree viewable.

    Awesome tank....

  20. #20
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cypherljk View Post
    Awesome tank....
    +1000. That is the kind of tank most of us here dream of having. Once that is stocked up with some nice corals and fishies, it will be spectacular.

  21. #21
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    Why would he need a DoS for AWC? I use low-level float to stop my draining pump and normal-level float to stop my fill pump. But again, my setup is a FW breeding rack.

    I'm guessing with SW, the more precise - the better?

  22. #22
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
    Why would he need a DoS for AWC? I use low-level float to stop my draining pump and normal-level float to stop my fill pump. But again, my setup is a FW breeding rack.

    I'm guessing with SW, the more precise - the better?
    With saltwater, even a small difference in the amount added vs removed can change the salinity of the tank. The DOS is much more precise and doesn't run the risk of a float failing and adding or removing much more than intended.

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