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Thread: help! converting pwm signal till 10-0v

  1. #1
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    help! converting pwm signal till 10-0v

    Did Any One get this to work. Do Any One have a wiering diagram om how to get this combo to work?
    My setup is.
    8 Rapid led Aurora pucks
    mean well LDD driver and bord from rapid led
    Steve's Interface to make pwm to 10-0v v4.2

    I have trayd to follow THE Manuel on stevs page but i dont get it at all...
    I think i gut misslead on the part wear THE posetiv Wire (vin)gate...
    I dont get it....
    I dont know wear i will get THE 12v power to Steve's card. My mean well power supplie have 48v and that is to much for stevs ..i have trayd that, and then fixtur is flashing.
    Secend atemt
    I have 12v wier from My fans that run on a sepret 12v driver. But that dont work... I have 4 chanels white,blue,colour,UV
    And thay are mixing...So i DO need some help.... Plz

  2. #2
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    PWM constant current dimming using 10-1v variable output on Neptune Apex to control 19.2v Aquaray LEDs

    I've just setup a Neptune Apex 2016 and I'm currently building an LED dimmer using the MeanWell LCM-25 Multi-Stage Constant Current Output LED Power Supply with a 5A DC-DC BUCK CONVERTER STEP DOWN 4-38V TO 1.25-36V WITH CURRENT CONTROL XL4015 to get 19.5v constant current for my TMC Aquaray tiles (which is a constant current LED panel and uses PWM).

    This MeanWell driver delivers constant current, supports 1-10v dimming and PWM, The LCM-25 is a 25v driver, hence I have used the BUCK converter to get the max voltage correct for my Aquaray.

    Here is the spec sheet for the MeanWell LCM-25: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/LCM-25-SPEC-806220.pdf

    When dimming is 100%, 10v is at Dim+/Dim- and this is converted to 19.2v. In my setup 10% is approx 1v at Dim+/Dim- and this gives 14.6v at the output of the BUCK converter.

    Here is the clearest description I found for the wiring for connecting an RJ45 Ethernet cable to the Neptune's V1/V2 or V3/V4 ports: http://iankreer.com/2015/diy-dimming...-neptune-apex/

    In my setup the RJ45 Ethernet cable is connected to V1/V2 - Orange/White is V1+, Orange is V1- and Green is V2+, Blue is V2-.

    This is a work in progress...I am still building this - using two MeanWell driver/BUCKs - one for the Blue and one for the white LED channels of my Aquaray.

    So far I have managed to test the blue channel on three Aquaray tiles using a Neptune program.

  3. #3
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    AQUARAY SmartControl 8 & "Simple" 1-10V Wiring (RJ45/APEX Pinout Needed)

    So, just resurrecting this from Feb/2017....
    @Cliffsaran, and others, of course w/TMCs AQUARAY - any updates?
    I am curious, specifically, as to exact wiring of the 1-10v of AQUARAY USB to RJ45.
    According to AQUARAY SC8 instructions, all one has to do is wire PIN 1 from USB to 1-10V, and PIN4 to Ground - then enable the 1-10v Control in the Smartcontroller 8, and all is well.

    What I am trying to verify is as follows:
    On RJ45 plug which goes to the APEX Neptune Head/Control Module, or to the APEX VDM which wire#/Pin is ground & which one is 1-10V?
    From what I read, I understand that each Vx/xx can control up to 2 Channels.
    However this would mean that since according to the AQUARAY it is just a 2 Wire 1-10V job the AQURAY Smart Controller will interpret the 1-10 signal and will treat the entire array of strips/tiles it controls as a single channel, which is fine with me, but - I want to be correct on the presumption, so to speak.

    So, if anyone has a correct pinout for the RJ45 on the APEX VDM/Control Unit - I would appreciate it. Will wire it up and go from there I suppose.
    Although, ideally, I would like to just forgo the controller and wire the LEDs with independent driver each, like Cliffsaran did above, but I am not yet ready for this... :-) I just want to do it simple way, and see if it works...

    See Image below for TMC/Aquaray Info on wiring the 1-10v conversion.
    Much appreciate your time guys.

    Screen Shot 2018-03-27 at 1.50.52 AM.png

  4. #4
    Master Control Freak RussM's Avatar
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    There are two stickies at the top of this sub-forum which have pinout diagrams of the VarSpd ports
    Please do not send me PMs with technical questions or requesting assistance - use the forums for Apex help. PM me ONLY if the matter is of a private or personal nature. Thanks.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussM View Post
    There are two stickies at the top of this sub-forum which have pinout diagrams of the VarSpd ports
    Russ, I saw them, where I got a bit confused is the wording of the wiring description, vs. the sticky guide image.
    The description states PIN1 to 1-10V, and PIN4 to GRND....
    The Sticky Image shows Utilization of PIN 3&4 and PIN 7&8 (with Polarity/vs. GRND indication)
    Screen Shot 2018-03-27 at 10.50.38 AM.png

    However, this is moot :-) but thank you for replying so quickly, I am sure if there was no limitation in APEX as well as in AQUARAY this would have been solved quickly.

    And, since I am NOT prepared to McGyver my expensive, still under warranty lights, YET... I can't start wiring them up to separate drivers with proper PWM to 0-10V translation....


    So, I hope that whoever is the next poor fool comes along trying to hookup TMC Aquaray to APEX will find this useful - at least to know that they should not waste their time, w/o re-wiring the lights, and also if they want to keep their warranty for a while. HAHH! I guess I am stuck using the controller for now, unless someone succeeds 100% to create a proper "re-wiring" guide for Aquaray, or APEX and Aquaray come up with something that would work together.


    In parallel I reached out to vendor of the lights, and I have a clear message/indication that using 1-10V w/APEX & TMC Aquaray is not a possibility at the moment. See the response below:

    Max,
    Thanks for checking with us.
    You cannot connect the Smart Controller to the Apex.
    This has been confirmed by the manufacturer & customers who has tried it.

    The technology of the Apex messes with the PWM and you get about 50% less PAR.
    I'm sure there's some type of strain we cannot see on the emitters, which could harm them long term.
    You cannot also use separate PWM drivers for the channels as if it's not done with the TMC controller, it will void their warranty.

    Hope that gives you some direction
    .

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