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Thread: Adding a second EB

  1. #1
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    Adding a second EB

    Is there any no no's when adding a second EB

  2. #2
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    You can only have a total of 200 feet of aquabus cable. Add away!

  3. #3
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Make sure you put it on a different circuit breaker if possible and if not possible make sure the circuit breaker can carry the load of both. As mentioned above you can't have over 200 ft of aquabus but that is pretty hard to achieve.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, it want be a problem putting the second EB on a different circuit breaker.


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  5. #5
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    Nope, that is just power, the control will still come from the apex

  6. #6
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joecooper81 View Post
    Thanks, it want be a problem putting the second EB on a different circuit breaker.


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    Good. It's preferable to put it on a different one. That way is something fails and trips the breaker only half your equipment goes down instead of everything.

    Try to split your equipment so the tank can still run even if one is lost. When I had a bigger tank I put half my heaters on each, half my pumps on each, half my lights on each, remaining sump based equipment on one and remaining tank based equipment on the other. Saved my butt a few times.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  7. #7
    Marine Aquarist FLSharkvictim's Avatar
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    Adding a 3rd EB8

    I will be adding a 3rd EB8 that will be installed in my garage above my Saltwater Mixing station! What I need is just a 30 ft Aquabus cable that's male to male to daisy chain it off my apex control panel correct?
    Going to be running my an automated system for my water changes off of it and I think it will require a 2nd Breakout box for extra float switches would imagine.
    Since where my mixing station is located from my display I will need a 30 ft Aquabus cable and an extra EB8 OR a EB4. Also, I will need is an extra Breakout box for my float switches in my barrels.
    Any feedback would be much appreciated.
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  8. #8
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    You can get custom sizes from usbfirewire.com by searching for aquabus cable that are guaranteed to work. Any usb cable that doesn't have a repeater as isn't a cheap Chinese POC will work though.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  9. #9
    Master Control Freak RussM's Avatar
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    Neptune has 30' M-M cables.

    In order to connect the additional BoB, you'll need another probe module (PM1 or PM2). The PM2 is probably a better choice because you could then add a conductivity probe for the SW mixing Brute.

    If all you want are level indications, consider a FMM and 4 optical sensors as an alternative to a PM#, BoB, and float switches.
    Please do not send me PMs with technical questions or requesting assistance - use the forums for Apex help. PM me ONLY if the matter is of a private or personal nature. Thanks.

  10. #10
    Marine Aquarist FLSharkvictim's Avatar
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    Many thanks Russ, I do have a PM module with a extra slot / port. So I am just going to order a 30ft cable M/M and a EB8 or a EB4.
    Also, grab a few float switches and I should be good to go. Also, grab another Breakout box.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussM View Post
    The PM2 is probably a better choice because you could then add a conductivity probe for the SW mixing Brute.
    I honestly can't trust my salinity probe enough to do this. (Calibrated about 3 times). Does anyone successfully do this?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tastyfish View Post
    I honestly can't trust my salinity probe enough to do this. (Calibrated about 3 times). Does anyone successfully do this?
    Warm the calibration packet in the same water your temp probe is in with temp compensation enabled with a value of 2.2 to start. Ideally you want 77F or 25C temperature to start so you can dial in the temp compensation value. For the dry test rinse thoroughly with RODI (don't use tap water) and let dry. Using magnets, clips, etc. Do the 53mS calibration step with the packet at least partially touching the water for about 5 minutes to let it fully settle (If this isn't possible be very quick since the fluid cooling will adjust the calibration quite significantly. 2 minutes is a good compromise between settling and cooling). Once you have calibrated, verify the probe reads near 0 in RODI and near 35ppt or 53mS in the calibration fluid. If it doesn't repeat until it does (you can use the same fluid). After that watch your conductivity. If it rises as temp rises, increase the temp compensation by 0.1. If it falls as temp rises reduce temp compensation by 0.1. Temp compensation is "good" when you have 0.2ppt or less variation per degree F change.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  13. #13
    Master Control Freak RussM's Avatar
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    Please do not hijack this thread about adding EnergyBars with blatantly off-topic posts about probes.
    Please do not send me PMs with technical questions or requesting assistance - use the forums for Apex help. PM me ONLY if the matter is of a private or personal nature. Thanks.

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