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Thread: Hooking up Electronic 12v Ballvalve with I/O Breakout

  1. #1
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    Question Hooking up Electronic 12v Ballvalve with I/O Breakout

    Hey guys i am somewhat new to this forum, but i am in need of someone smarter then me to help me wire my 12v ball valve. OK so my plan is to replace my current ball valve that turns my RO/DI On & off with a electronic one so that it automatically starts and stops. I have purchased a electric float off amazon ( 2 wire ) and my plan was to wire it into my Neptune I/O Box so that when the water in the container is lower then float it will open the ball valve up and fill my storage container. Once the water satisfies the position of the float i want it to close the ball valve. the ball valve is a 12v ( 3 wire ) the one wire is ground, other 2 wires are normally open & closed.

    So my two questions are 1 can the Neptune I/O Box supply the 12v needed to open & close the valve? and 2 would be if not then how can i wire this up to work with the float & I/O Breakout box?

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    I'm curious too but I think I read somewhere that it can support something up to 15 or was that the vdm.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

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    The breakout box is input only do not connect anything except a dry contact or switch to it.

    If you want to control the ball valve I would need to see a part number or datasheet to tell you how to go about it properly.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    http://www.solenoid-valve.world/image/data/PDF/CWX-CR04.pdf



    - - - Updated - - -

    that is the manual, im running the CWX-15N model.

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    You sure that's the right One? That is a 2 wire version and you mentioned 3 wire.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    sorry the directions are not easy to find as this is another fine piece of craftsmanship from china... i have attached the instructions from the listing on amazon, also i tested the valve at work & the way i got it work was by grounding yellow, then applying 12v to red to open the valve then applied 12v to blue to close valve.
    61oFCX+fxlL._SL1004_.jpg20170802_135858.jpg20170802_135910.jpg

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    That's what I suspected as that's how 3 wire valves work in the oil and gas projects I have done. Basically you have 3 options (Personally I would go with 3)

    1. Get two 120VAC - 12VDC supplies and connect each one to an energy bar outlet (only 4 or 8 would work). Tie the negative leads together and wire to positive to open and close respectively. One outlet opens and the other closes

    2. Purchase a form C 120VAC relay and a 12V power supply. Plug the power supply into the wall, and wire the coil of the relay into a plug to connect to the eb8 outlet. Wire the form C contact so that common connects to the ps positive, NO to valve close, and NC to valve open. Connect the negative of the ps to the valve common.

    3. Trash the ball valve and buy a 24V solenoid instead (neptune sells a good one). Power that off of either an acc port (if you have a one link, FMM, or eb832) or a 24V power supply connected to outlet 4 or 8.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    Ok so i found the solenoid your talking about i will attach link to verify its correct, my only question now i can plum it in between my current ball valve and RO/DI but if i leave the ball valve open at all times will this solenoid be able to handle house pressure without leaking? also im assuming once i plug into my WAV one link box i will be able to program that port threw fusion?

    http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sv-1-s...e-systems.html

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    http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sv-1-s...e-systems.html

    and yes, it'll plug into the 1link module and you can control its on/off with programming, just like any other output.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blkdonny22 View Post
    Ok so i found the solenoid your talking about i will attach link to verify its correct, my only question now i can plum it in between my current ball valve and RO/DI but if i leave the ball valve open at all times will this solenoid be able to handle house pressure without leaking? also im assuming once i plug into my WAV one link box i will be able to program that port threw fusion?

    http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sv-1-s...e-systems.html
    Technically yes, but what I would do instead is also get their auto shutoff kit and hook that up to your waste and ro lines. Put the solenoid on the RO output line and then use a mechanical float valve as a final failsafe. That will extend the life of the solenoid, make the solenoid more reliable, and allow the float to also shut down the RO without wasting water,

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  11. #11
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    ok awesome! thank you guys so much i really appreciate your assistance on this.

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    Hey guys wanted to give a update on this project. I got the 24v Neptune Solenoid installed & Programed over the weekend. Also installed 2 floats in the top of my ATO container, Basically if one float fails the other will catch it to prevent overflows. Thanks again for all your help guys.

    20170807_112633.jpg20170807_112338.jpg20170807_112345.jpg20170807_112417.jpg
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