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Thread: DOS for automatic freshwater water changes

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    DOS for automatic freshwater water changes

    I am looking to setup a DOS for automatic water changes on my 180 gallon freshwater tank. I have a potential solution for the drain, but the new water is a problem. I have no room for a reservoir, so I was hoping to tap directly in to the sink cold water supply line that is behind the aquarium. Based on feedback from Neptune Systems the DOS cannot handle the water pressure. Has anyone ever done anything like this before and can offer me some suggestions? Thanks in advance for your help.

  2. #2
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    Do you have room for at least 10 gallon reservoir under your tank or in a closet?

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    Maybe. Trying to avoid a reservoir because the tank is 180 gallons. What are your thoughts?

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    My thought was if you have any size reservoir (anything larger than a 5 gallon bucket should be more than adequate), you could connect a mechanical float to the reservoir that connects to your water purifier (If you don't own one you should and it dechlorinates, removed heavy metals, and acts as a flow restrictor so the reservoir fills slow) and an optional solenoid if you want extra safety. Then hook the DOS up to that small reservoir. Prevents the need for a large reservoir, manual fills of any kind, dechlorinates and filters the water, and saves the issue of the dos being unable to handle 60psi.

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    I've been thinking about using a Neptune Systems solenoid valve from the cold water supply line in to a 5 gallon reservoir with low and high water optical sensors that are controlled by an Apex Fusion / FMM combination. When the reservoir is low the solenoid valve would open to fill. When the top optical sensor closes so does the solenoid valve. Then the DOS will pull from the reservoir and empty old water directly in to the drain with a 1/4" drain saddle valve. Thoughts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry David View Post
    I've been thinking about using a Neptune Systems solenoid valve from the cold water supply line in to a 5 gallon reservoir with low and high water optical sensors that are controlled by an Apex Fusion / FMM combination. When the reservoir is low the solenoid valve would open to fill. When the top optical sensor closes so does the solenoid valve. Then the DOS will pull from the reservoir and empty old water directly in to the drain with a 1/4" drain saddle valve. Thoughts?
    That is exactly what I was suggesting earlier. Though I would try to go larger than 5 if you can to ensure the water is dechlorinated more often than not. If you go straight to the cold water line you will need either a filter or restrictor otherwise it will spray like nobody's business.

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    If I used an RO filter with this solution I don't think the reservoir would fill up quick enough and I'd need to deal with the waste water. I figured if I replaced 40 gallons out of 200 gallons a month I wouldn't need to worry too much about chlorine. As for the restrictor, if the fill tube in the reservoir is below the water line wouldn't that keep it from splashing?

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    No. You would still need a flow restrictor. 60 psi comes out really quick. It will have the added benefit of increasing the solenoid life. You could also use a sediment and carbon filter as a flow restrictor as well (RO is unnecessary for freshwater. The carbon alone will remove 99% of chlorine).

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    I talked to Neptune support and the solenoid will handle up to 85 PSI, so I think I'd be ok without a flow restrictor. I like the idea of a carbon filter, but I'm struggling to find one with 1/4" fittings. I'll keep looking. Thanks for your help!

  10. #10
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    https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-g...0aAncWEALw_wcB

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    Thanks, I saw that one too, but it's a 1/2" connector. The solenoid is 1/4"

  12. #12
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    Just change elbow on one or both sides to a 1/4" thread to 1/4 John guest elbow. Also make sure you use RO tubing as the flexible stuff isn't rated for 60 psi.



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    So you do you think these would work:
    https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/mur-l...h-connect.html
    With this?
    https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-g...or-single.html
    Thank you for your help.

  14. #14
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    Yes, but I would recommend the double with a 5 micron sediment and a 5 or 1 micron carbon. It will triple the life of the carbon filter so it's only job becomes removing chlorine and heavy metals. The sediment filters are much cheaper and keep the carbon from getting clogged up.



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    Update. I setup the system and it working great. I did have to install adapters for the RO tubing. 1/4" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 1/2" on both sides. The water supply goes to the filter, the filter goes to the solenoid and the solenoid goes to the ATK which is setup in a 10 gallon reservoir under the tank. I slightly modified the programming to support the solenoid, allow for longer run times and to use an optical sensor as a failsafe. The sump has an ATK with a PMUP sitting in the reservoir to fill it. I also have a DOS that is setup to pull from the reservoir and empty directly in to the sink drain on the other side of the wall. Now all water changes and top-offs are fully automated. I now have very little maintenance to do and the water quality is better than ever. Zombie, thanks for your help!

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