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Thread: Float switch bracket

  1. #1
    Regular Vistor Asco1104's Avatar
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    Float switch bracket

    Hi I can find loads of float switch’s but I’m struggling to find a bracket for them. Can anyone provide links to any?

    Thanks I’m in the uk
    Tim

  2. #2
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    I made mine myself with some magnets epoxy and a piece of acrylic that I bent over a hot wire. I had trouble finding anything even in the US

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    Frequent Visitor Todd's Avatar
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    Here is something off the shelf: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/reefk...-aquatics.html

    I also built my own similar to the one listed.

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    Thanks my acrylic skills arnt that great, I seem to burn through it rather than cut it.

    That looks ok but not sure if brs ship to the uk.
    Tim

  5. #5
    Frequent Visitor Todd's Avatar
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    Since you are in the UK, I don't know how applicable this is. But, if using a table saw or circular saw, get a high tooth count blade such as this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Class...-Blade/3239053
    Otherwise, you can score it with a sharp utility knife and snap it. To bend it, I use a heating gun, and a heavy piece of wood as a form. Trickiest part is not overheating it and causing it to bubble.

  6. #6
    Regular Vistor Asco1104's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd View Post
    Since you are in the UK, I don't know how applicable this is. But, if using a table saw or circular saw, get a high tooth count blade such as this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Class...-Blade/3239053
    Otherwise, you can score it with a sharp utility knife and snap it. To bend it, I use a heating gun, and a heavy piece of wood as a form. Trickiest part is not overheating it and causing it to bubble.
    Thanks I will have a go at scoring and snapping it
    Tim

  7. #7
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Score and snap to get to size, then heat with a lighter, hot wire, or heat gun and bend it over a 2×4. Then cut the hole and attach a reef safe magnet with cyanoacrelate (super glue).

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  8. #8
    Regular Vistor Asco1104's Avatar
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    Brilliant thanks

    Are all float switch’s the same? Reason I ask is I want one for sump low level so it will be submerged.

    I’m right in saying a infrared sensor wouldn’t work with a bob because it needs a 5 volt feed as well as the switch wire and earth wire?
    Tim

  9. #9
    Frequent Visitor Todd's Avatar
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    Here is what I use: http://www.chicagosensor.com/Vertica..._Switches.html Specifically FLT015. They are not very expensive, so I usually buy several to have on hand when they fail. I have one that stays constantly submerged. They generally last a couple years before failure. They are simple continuity switches.

    Correct, the Apex switch inputs won't handle an external voltage. You might be able to rig up a relay, but seems like a lot of trouble.

  10. #10
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Use Chicago or Madison if they will be fully submerged (Madison also need a nut FYI so dont forget that). Many other brands don't seal the end well (especially chinese ebay ones) and can leach copper in the tank if fully submerged.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  11. #11
    Regular Vistor Asco1104's Avatar
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    Can’t find either of those in the uk
    Tim

  12. #12
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    I used the extra magnet holder and sensor housing that came with a Tunze 3155 to mount an OS-1 optical sensor on my DT with 1/2" glass. I had to shave the inside of the housing to make the sensor fit. It should also work with float switches. They are both available on the tunze website p/n 3152.512 and 3152.630. They are a little pricey but they work well.

  13. #13
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    Not sure if they ship to the U.K., but I use this place for 3D printed stuff including float holders

    https://printedreefingsolutions.com/

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    I custom print all my 3D brackets for the tank and sump. I'm happy to share the STL files. It's great to see that someone has built a business around such things too!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd View Post
    Since you are in the UK, I don't know how applicable this is. But, if using a table saw or circular saw, get a high tooth count blade such as this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Class...-Blade/3239053
    Otherwise, you can score it with a sharp utility knife and snap it. To bend it, I use a heating gun, and a heavy piece of wood as a form. Trickiest part is not overheating it and causing it to bubble.
    I think the teeth is too fine on the blade causing the the acrylic to heat up and melt. I would recommend a carbide with no more than 60 teeth.

    I've been working with polycarbonates & acrylics for a few years now.

    Good luck.

  16. #16
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    Thanks everyone, I have asked a company called little ocean in the uk and they can make me a double magnetic holder for around £15 wich I’m happy with, there frag racks are good quality too.
    Tim

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