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Thread: Chiller Usage with Apex Regarding Programming and Amperage Draw

  1. #1
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    Chiller Usage with Apex Regarding Programming and Amperage Draw

    QUESTION 1)
    Would someone be so kind as to answer the following:
    Background:
    Equipment Apex 2016, JBJ Arctica Titanium 1/5 HP Chiller (DBA-150), New

    Desire:
    Control via the Apex using its Temp Probe to run the Chiller not the Chiller Thermostat, IN ADDITION TO, having the Chiller run for a few minutes a couple times per day just to keep the water moving throughout the Chiller, REGARDLESS if Temp needs to be lowered

    To Date Actions:
    I have run the task command with the following outcome:

    Fallback OFF
    If Tmp > 78.0 Then ON
    If Tmp < 77.8 Then OFF


    I realize this is remedial but the risk of me having the chiller run without total control is scary. I am new to the sport and have screwed up some simple things and my confidence is lacking, frankly.I have read Chapter 5, page 55 in the programming manual but want to ensure I do not screw this one up. Concern is much greater now that I have fish in this FOWLR set up

    Would someone please give me recommendation as to the correct timing program to make this happen and any extra info to add?

    2) Amp Draw- I am pulling 505 watts when this thing comes on, Am I Ok in any outlet of my EB832?

    Thank your for your support and verification!

  2. #2
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    Is this for a subtropical species tank? A setpoint that low is extremely unusual for tropical reef tanks, which can thrive well into the low to mid 80s. Most sucessful reef tanks I have seen that use a chiller are set more in the 81-84 area for their setpoints.

    That chiller should only draw 5A so it is safe for the EB832 (all outlets in the EB832 are 7A).

    This would force the chiller ON for 2 minutes twice a day even if not called for.

    Fallback OFF
    If Tmp > 78.0 Then ON
    If Tmp < 77.8 Then OFF
    If Time 00:00 to 00:01 Then ON
    If Time 12:00 to 12:01 Then ON



    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    I am new and have seen a card from a major vendor for a fish only tank that states 72-78 degrees. I do not have any coral at this point and not sure if I will go that route, simply fish and some cleaner invertebrates. I thought I was at the top of the range. If you have a recommendation, I respect your input for sure! Thank you Zombie

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGreatWhiteSharkman View Post
    I am new and have seen a card from a major vendor for a fish only tank that states 72-78 degrees. I do not have any coral at this point and not sure if I will go that route, simply fish and some cleaner invertebrates. I thought I was at the top of the range. If you have a recommendation, I respect your input for sure! Thank you Zombie
    Fish only tanks can safely be kept in the 75-78 range and is actually preferred because it slows the metabolism of fish allowing you to feed less and also slows the growth of bacteria and parasites. Reef tanks with coral experience better growth and overall health in the 78-82 range. I personally run the setpoint in my tank using the seasonal chart between 77 in the winter up to 80 in the summer. The heater turns on 0.2 degrees above and below that setpoint and any cooling (I use fans instead of a chiller since colorado has low humidity) turns on at 1 degree above the setpoint and turns off 0.7 degrees above the setpoint. So during summer the tank can hit up to 81.1 degrees and winter can go as low as 76.8.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    Zombie, Thank you for your input and your tag line regarding an engineer is great!. I felt like I was pushing the upper parameters at my 78 degrees and was thinking that was suspect going into a hot and humid midwest summer, but it should be OK. I have been following a parameters card by SaltwaterAquarium. My tank is Fish and Invertebrates and Live Rock and this is what I believe it will stay. If you know of any knowledge resource dedicated to this on guidelines, I would appreciate it, realizing this is a step down from the true hobbyist who is managing much more complex parameters with sessile invertebrates. My next tank or the future may bring coral as my daughter and I navigate this new frontier which is ever so enjoyable.

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    Unless they have changed their design, I have the same DBA 150 chiller and it does not have it's own circulation pump.
    I have an old MJ1200 powerhead pushing water 24/7. It the summer the chiller cycles as needed. In the winter months
    it never comes on, but I keep the water flowing.

    So you do not need to cycle the chiller ever so often to circulate water, just keep the supply pump running 24/7.

    I would also suggest setting Fallback ON in case the Apex looses connection, you would want the chiller's internal thermostat to
    take over control. If Fallback is set to OFF and you loose connection, the outlet will be off and if the temp rises to high
    the chiller will not kick on.

    You night have to increase temp range to .6-.8 degrees as these chiller's internal thermostat will only control temp +/-1 degree.

    I have the chiller set 2 degrees higher than the Apex setting.

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    What I hear you to be saying is that there is not a place for the water to stagnate as long as I keep the line from my Red Sea supply main pump going, it automatically clears the chiller and no water will go stagnant. Is that right?

    Also, do you know how much GPH you supply to your DBA 150?

    Thank you

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    That is correct. Basically there is a tank inside the chiller with a titanium cooling coil inside.
    Water goes in, runs over the coil, then out the other side.
    Think of it as being the same as your heater in your sump, only on a smaller scale.
    I have no idea on the flow rate I am pushing. The spec calls for 480-1320 gal/hr.
    The MJ1200 Powerhead is rated at 295 gph, and by the numbers is lower than the
    required specs, but it works very good on my 80 gal.
    Besides a slower rate is more efficient (to a point) as the water has more dwell to allow
    heat removal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Member No 1 View Post
    That is correct. Basically there is a tank inside the chiller with a titanium cooling coil inside.
    Water goes in, runs over the coil, then out the other side.
    Think of it as being the same as your heater in your sump, only on a smaller scale.
    I have no idea on the flow rate I am pushing. The spec calls for 480-1320 gal/hr.
    The MJ1200 Powerhead is rated at 295 gph, and by the numbers is lower than the
    required specs, but it works very good on my 80 gal.
    Besides a slower rate is more efficient (to a point) as the water has more dwell to allow
    heat removal.

    Thank you for letting me know.

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