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Thread: Chiller with internal t stat and 2 degree variance

  1. #1
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    Chiller with internal t stat and 2 degree variance

    I'm trying to find the happy medium between my chiller and my apex. Problem is the fact that I have to set the internal t stat on my chiller to 76 because of the 2 degree variance for it to operate in the temp threshold of 78.8 to 78.2 I'm shooting for. This makes me nervous in case of a failure on the apex. Or is 76 a better safe than sorry incase of failure and over heating?
    That being said... I'm still not 100 percent on the fallback and set and over all does this make sense?

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  2. #2
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    76 isnt a problem considering fish handle a low temp change better than a high temp change because of the increased dissolved oxygen at lower temps. The only failure scenarios are temp probe failure, which can be solved by adding the line I show below, and a stuck relay which is incredibly uncommon and your fish can handle the 76 the one time that will happen if it ever happens.

    If Temp > 85 Then OFF

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    76 isnt a problem considering fish handle a low temp change better than a high temp change because of the increased dissolved oxygen at lower temps. The only failure scenarios are temp probe failure, which can be solved by adding the line I show below, and a stuck relay which is incredibly uncommon and your fish can handle the 76 the one time that will happen if it ever happens.

    If Temp > 85 Then OFF

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
    Thank you.

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    Here's a comparison of amp to temp. It seems to be cycling on every 4 hrs or so and stays on for about 45 min is this an acceptable cycle?

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    ... picture helps.

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    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    What are you keeping in the tank? If it's just fish and subtropical coral species that looks good. If you have tropical SPS and have an oversized skimmer and good flow, I would consider bumping every setpoint up a couple degrees. This will slow the changes and a temp closer to the 79-81 range will see increased coral growth due to the slower temp changes and increased metabolic rate (certain snail species will die quicker, but fish will be unaffected). This will also save you a bunch on your electric bill.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    What are you keeping in the tank? If it's just fish and subtropical coral species that looks good. If you have tropical SPS and have an oversized skimmer and good flow, I would consider bumping every setpoint up a couple degrees. This will slow the changes and a temp closer to the 79-81 range will see increased coral growth due to the slower temp changes and increased metabolic rate (certain snail species will die quicker, but fish will be unaffected). This will also save you a bunch on your electric bill.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
    I just started introducing animals to the display. This is a new build. So far I have an orchid dotty back, 2 banggai cardinals, a few turbo snails, a coral banded shrimp and a few hermits. My plan is a mixed tank with a heavier lean on sps.
    I've basically gone way over kill on the sump which more than doubled my total water volume. I read and researched for over a year and found so many different methods I said I'll just implement them all but on a smaller scale individually.. for example instead of using only a ATS I went with a nano scrubber and will also be using cheato so I can supply my display with a healthy amount of pods and balance the nutrient export between the two algae methods.

    That being said this is all built for a 60 cube. I plan on being heavily stocked.

    Here's a link to my sump set up.

    https://youtu.be/93ZlyauQ12E

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