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Thread: JBJ DBA-150 Chiller Control Mod

  1. #1
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    JBJ DBA-150 Chiller Control Mod

    I have been running a JBJ DBA-150 for years. Super reliable, trouble free, works well to keep my tank temp in check.
    I do not have central air, so in the summer months in NE, it gets a good workout.


    However, one thing that's always bother me was the cycle. If left to it's own internal thermostat, the temp
    would rise to hi before it would kick in, then go to low before turning off. Sometimes the heater would kick in
    then the two would fight.
    So to remedy (band-aid) this, I would use my Apex to control the chiller. I had much more precise temp control,
    and could monitor if the chiller or heaters were on at the same time.
    The issue using this method is with the Apex cutting power to the chiller, the logics of the chiller goes thru
    a "boot up" stage and is delayed starting. Also the chiller display is off until power up. There never was a
    problem with the chiller losing it settings, due to it using Flash Memory. Matter of fact,
    after a 3 year break, I plugged it in and and all my old setting were in intact!


    My plan is to leave the chiller powered up, with the setting slightly cooler than I want my tank, and use
    one of the 24vdc Outputs on the EB832 to control a 24vdc relay that in turn will control power to the compressor.
    The main logic would be on, (no boot-up) the display would be lit, and when the Apex calls for a cooling cycle,
    it would be instant.


    Has anyone ever tried this? I know my way around machine controls just enough to get myself in trouble,
    so I understand the circuitry, so I am hoping to hear from the HVAC guys to why it would/wouldn't work.

    Chiller
    JBJ 150.JPG

    Got to love the wire color code!
    JBJ Wiring Diagram.JPG

    Using the above schematic, I would splice into the White and Brown(Brawn) going from the Temperature Controller
    and connect to the movable contacts on the relay, then from the NO contacts to the Compressor.
    24vdc from the Apex would power the coil.

    Not actual relay (picture reference only)

    Relay.jpg

    I welcome your comments.
    TIA

  2. #2
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    This is a great idea! I have a DBM-250 and would absolutely do this if it works.

    Tagging along.

  3. #3
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    You want the sky and white going to the NO contact of the relay.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    I can see where that would work too. That would by-pass the chiller's temp controller.

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    You have a few options depending on how you want the built in temp controller to react. Either way the brown should not be used. Sky wets the contact and white sends the signal to turn on. Brown is used to power the temp controller circuitry.

    1. Tap the NO into white and sky. This will allow either the apex or the chiller to call for cooling when either is on.

    2. Cut the White Wire And but the NO in series. This will run the chiller based on the apex code but will be permissive by the chiller thermostat.

    3. Tap into the sky and cut the White to splice in the NO between the tap and the cut. This will retain the temp display but only the apex will control the chiller.


    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    My original plan was to operate like scenario 2. This was for a safety feature to keep the chiller from becoming overcool and not shutting down.
    But I'm liking No.1 more and more. Best of both worlds.

    Sky = Line
    Brown = Neutral
    White = Load

    I was only going to cut the brown going to the compressor and run this on the second set of contacts.
    So both legs going to the compressor are run thru the relay. I know the brown is not needed, but
    a lot of machine contacts are set up this way, so I figured why not.

  7. #7
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    For the relay. Would something like this work?

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    Yes that would work fine.

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    Cool. Ordering.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by anit77 View Post
    For the relay. Would something like this work?
    technically it should but it might blow up on chiller in rush current.

    Something like this would be suited better for the job and is safer to wire. https://www.energycontrol.com/Functi...hoCg_MQAvD_BwE

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    technically it should but it might blow up on chiller in rush current.

    Something like this would be suited better for the job and is safer to wire.
    Thanks! I hadn't ordered yet and saw those too.

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    I have an old Pacific Coast Chiller I am planning to do the same thing. The control board on it fried but when I gutted the unit, I found the chiller still works good. So Apex controls it will be. I plan to build a custom vented enclosure and relocate it outside my house directly behind the tank. I still have not decided if I will pump water out to the chiller or extend the coils and run them to my sump. The later is a little more involved, but my brother is refrigerant certified and can install the extension with flare fittings on each end; and this approach eliminates the need to monitor for coils freezing over. Either way, it will be nice to directly pump that heat outside my home, especially in the summer months, instead of relaying it to a 5-ton air conditioner.

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    @Member No 1 Have you made nay progress on this?

    Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but this relay could also work with 120VAC correct?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by djbetterly View Post
    @Member No 1 Have you made nay progress on this?

    Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but this relay could also work with 120VAC correct?
    That could be used for 24VDC, 24VAC, 120VAC, or 277VAC depending on how you wire it.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by djbetterly View Post
    @Member No 1 Have you made nay progress on this?

    Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but this relay could also work with 120VAC correct?
    As Zombie stated, yes if wired as such.

    Sorry to say, no progress has been made, but the project is not forgotten. June was a very busy month, and temps were warming so I needed the chiller,
    so needless to say, it went into service in the same configuration/settings/Apex coding that worked previous years.
    It is still on my need to do list, so once cooler weather is here to stay with no chance of an occasional warm day, I will get this configured with the relay.
    In the mean time, if you decide to venture forth with this mod, please keep us updated, thanks.

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    I have everything ready to go myself but just haven't gotten to it yet. I'm just not sure of the wires to put where in the chiller.

    It's still on my "To Do" list but not at the top ATM.

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    Pretty sure I understand what goes where but yes, a wiring diagram would be good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    You have a few options depending on how you want the built in temp controller to react. Either way the brown should not be used. Sky wets the contact and white sends the signal to turn on. Brown is used to power the temp controller circuitry.

    1. Tap the NO into white and sky. This will allow either the apex or the chiller to call for cooling when either is on.

    2. Cut the White Wire And but the NO in series. This will run the chiller based on the apex code but will be permissive by the chiller thermostat.

    3. Tap into the sky and cut the White to splice in the NO between the tap and the cut. This will retain the temp display but only the apex will control the chiller.


    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.
    I'm about to wire up the relay and the internal chiller wiring doesn't look right to me. On the power cord I've verified black is the hot wire and white is the neutral, per standard. From there it looks like it's wired backwards internally.

    From the power cord the black goes to light blue(sky) where it is then tapped with the black wires from the compressor & fan, with a sky lead going to the 4pin connector where sky turns black and it connects to a pin labeled "N" at the coil on the board.

    The white wire from the power cord goes to the fuse and the changes brown(brawn), at the connector it changes to back to white and connects the on the N/C side of the relay on the controller board. The N/O side of the relay is dark blue and then at the connector goes back to white and on to the compressor & fan.

    Do you have any pointers so I don't fry everything up?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by anit77 View Post
    I'm about to wire up the relay and the internal chiller wiring doesn't look right to me. On the power cord I've verified black is the hot wire and white is the neutral, per standard. From there it looks like it's wired backwards internally.

    From the power cord the black goes to light blue(sky) where it is then tapped with the black wires from the compressor & fan, with a sky lead going to the 4pin connector where sky turns black and it connects to a pin labeled "N" at the coil on the board.

    The white wire from the power cord goes to the fuse and the changes brown(brawn), at the connector it changes to back to white and connects the on the N/C side of the relay on the controller board. The N/O side of the relay is dark blue and then at the connector goes back to white and on to the compressor & fan.

    Do you have any pointers so I don't fry everything up?
    I would print out that JBJ wiring diagram and mark it up with the colors that you see, then post that here. That would be a lot easier for me to follow and make sure you don't cut the wrong wire. I would also need to know which of the 3 approaches I mentioned you prefer.

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    I would print out that JBJ wiring diagram and mark it up with the colors that you see, then post that here. That would be a lot easier for me to follow and make sure you don't cut the wrong wire. I would also need to know which of the 3 approaches I mentioned you prefer.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    I'd like to use the 1st option. Here's the way it's wired now.
    JBJ Wiring Diagram.JPG

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by anit77 View Post
    I'd like to use the 1st option. Here's the way it's wired now.
    JBJ Wiring Diagram.JPG
    Then tap the NO contact into either brawn and sky on the male connector (if you want the apex to still control it with the temperature controller disconnected) or white and blue on the female side (if not). If your relay is a form C, put the common on the white of the male or blue on the female so you dont make the unused lead hot when it's not running.

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  22. #22
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    Thanks! Just had the ah ha moment.

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