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Thread: Upgrading to my Classic unit to the 2016 model. Struggling to figure out what I need to make sure it all plays nicely.

  1. #1
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    Upgrading to my Classic unit to the 2016 model. Struggling to figure out what I need to make sure it all plays nicely.

    Here's what I'm carrying over to the new setup:

    • 3 Kessil 360 (3 plugs)
    • 2 Banks of T5's (2 plugs)
    • Kessil Refugium Light (1 plug)
    • Reef Octopus Return Pump (1 plug)
    • Reef Octopus Skimmer (1 plug)
    • Heater (1 plug)


    Here's what I plan on using in the new setup:
    • Neptune 2016 Controller
    • Neptune Auto Feeder
    • Neptune Leak Controller
    • 2 Neptune DOS Units
    • Neptune Moon Lights (string of 3)
    • Neptune Auto Top Off



    I'm not sure what units use 1link and which don't... So I'm not certain how many energy bars I would actually need.


    1. How would you guys hook all of this up?
    2. Are there enough plugs and 1link ports to run all this equipment with just one of the new Energy Bars?
    3. Should I run a multi plug for the Kessils and use out outlet on the Energy Bar to run all 3 Kessils?
    4. Same question for my T5's. Should I run both off one outlet?
    5. Is there anything from my classic unit I should retain and keep using? Seems like they're pretty much worthless now... I had thought about keeping the old energy bar. I have the old leak detection module as well, but thought it might not be a bad idea to replace with the latest greatest version.
    6. What is the process for transferring your programming from the Class to the 2016 model?



    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    The kessils can be plugged in the wall or all share one outlet and controlled with a kessi ill to apex cable.

    The T5 I would separate if you have different bulb types in them to help with sunrise sunset. If they are the same bulb type they can share an outlet.

    You can get away with one energy bar, but I would consider a second for the purpose of redundancy in your heaters. You should km d always be using two or three undersized heaters rather than one large one. If a large one fails you might have a tank crash on your hands. If you have multiple smaller ones and one fails your tank usually won't even notice it.

    What I would do for the transfer is start with just the new head unit, energy bar, and essential modules for your code like the leak detector and program the outlets from scratch. You might find better ways to code things than how yours is currently set up if you start from scratch. Once the energy bar is programmed, test function and move plugs over. Then move your other modules over one at a time and copy paste your old code or rewrite from scratch.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Master Control Freak RussM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deputydog95 View Post
    What is the process for transferring your programming from the Class to the 2016 model?
    https://forum.neptunesystems.com/sho...Apex-or-ApexEL
    Please do not send me PMs with technical questions or requesting assistance - use the forums for Apex help. PM me ONLY if the matter is of a private or personal nature. Thanks.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    The kessils can be plugged in the wall or all share one outlet and controlled with a kessi ill to apex cable.

    The T5 I would separate if you have different bulb types in them to help with sunrise sunset. If they are the same bulb type they can share an outlet.

    You can get away with one energy bar, but I would consider a second for the purpose of redundancy in your heaters. You should km d always be using two or three undersized heaters rather than one large one. If a large one fails you might have a tank crash on your hands. If you have multiple smaller ones and one fails your tank usually won't even notice it.

    What I would do for the transfer is start with just the new head unit, energy bar, and essential modules for your code like the leak detector and program the outlets from scratch. You might find better ways to code things than how yours is currently set up if you start from scratch. Once the energy bar is programmed, test function and move plugs over. Then move your other modules over one at a time and copy paste your old code or rewrite from scratch.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    Hey there Zombie, thanks for the great info.

    I already have the Apex controller cable for my Kessils, so I'll run all those off one outlet. I'm currently doing that now, but the 1 to 3 splitter I'm using is massive. Any good ideas for a 1 to 3 splitter that's cleaner? Does it need to be one of those high amperage outlets for the 3 Kessils off one outlet?

    I have two banks of 2 T5 bulbs. Each bank having it's own power cord. So two cords. It's not a dimmable T5 ballast, so I just have them (4 ATI Blue+) all come on about 2 hours after the Kessils fire up and about 2 hours before the Kessils turn off. I'm using the Apex to turn the Kessils on at 15% intensity, ramp up to about 80%, and then back down to 15%. However, you gave me an idea. I could have 2 of the T5's turn on first, and then a half hour later or so have two more turn on. The tank would have an incremental Par ramp up and down versus radiating the tank instantly with all 4 T5's and the Kessils which would be at around 50% when then normally all turn on.

    If I run all 4 T5's off one outlet, does it need to be one of those high amperage outlets? What about if I run just 2 bulbs? Regular outlet or high amperage?

    I'm in Florida, and run the AC all year round. However, the ladies in my office office often monkey with the AC, so the heater is really just there to stabilize the temp to keep it within a couple degrees if they crank the AC down. It's such a balancing act between the ambient temp in the office and the tank temp. Especially without a chiller. Since adding the T5's, the tank runs a little warmer now. I used to shoot for 78.5, but I'm having to run it at 80 now as I don't run the office AC as cool at night and on the weekends. If I keep it at 80, the heater comes on some during the week when the AC is blowing, but then on the weekends with the office AC set to 78, the tank seems to hover around 80 degrees on its own.

    I have one large heater now, which barely fits and I have concerns about it failing. Since it rarely ever gets cold here, I'm not too worried about the tank ever getting below 75 on it's own. However... The large heater is too big and they're cheap enough to be replaced annually as a precaution. I've been toying with the idea of using 2 smaller heaters for while now. You just pushed me over the edge

    Do the heaters need to be on a high amperage outlet?

    As you can tell, I'm not really clear on what should be used on those outlets...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Great link! Thanks, Russ.

  5. #5
    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deputydog95 View Post
    Hey there Zombie, thanks for the great info.

    I already have the Apex controller cable for my Kessils, so I'll run all those off one outlet. I'm currently doing that now, but the 1 to 3 splitter I'm using is massive. Any good ideas for a 1 to 3 splitter that's cleaner? Does it need to be one of those high amperage outlets for the 3 Kessils off one outlet?

    I have two banks of 2 T5 bulbs. Each bank having it's own power cord. So two cords. It's not a dimmable T5 ballast, so I just have them (4 ATI Blue+) all come on about 2 hours after the Kessils fire up and about 2 hours before the Kessils turn off. I'm using the Apex to turn the Kessils on at 15% intensity, ramp up to about 80%, and then back down to 15%. However, you gave me an idea. I could have 2 of the T5's turn on first, and then a half hour later or so have two more turn on. The tank would have an incremental Par ramp up and down versus radiating the tank instantly with all 4 T5's and the Kessils which would be at around 50% when then normally all turn on.

    If I run all 4 T5's off one outlet, does it need to be one of those high amperage outlets? What about if I run just 2 bulbs? Regular outlet or high amperage?

    I'm in Florida, and run the AC all year round. However, the ladies in my office office often monkey with the AC, so the heater is really just there to stabilize the temp to keep it within a couple degrees if they crank the AC down. It's such a balancing act between the ambient temp in the office and the tank temp. Especially without a chiller. Since adding the T5's, the tank runs a little warmer now. I used to shoot for 78.5, but I'm having to run it at 80 now as I don't run the office AC as cool at night and on the weekends. If I keep it at 80, the heater comes on some during the week when the AC is blowing, but then on the weekends with the office AC set to 78, the tank seems to hover around 80 degrees on its own.

    I have one large heater now, which barely fits and I have concerns about it failing. Since it rarely ever gets cold here, I'm not too worried about the tank ever getting below 75 on it's own. However... The large heater is too big and they're cheap enough to be replaced annually as a precaution. I've been toying with the idea of using 2 smaller heaters for while now. You just pushed me over the edge

    Do the heaters need to be on a high amperage outlet?

    As you can tell, I'm not really clear on what should be used on those outlets...

    - - - Updated - - -



    Great link! Thanks, Russ.
    There are no "high amperage outlets" on a 2016 apex. All of the outlets are 7A. For heaters this is a max of about 750W per outlet, and for things light pumps and lights the limit is closer to 600W per outlet. The entire energy bar is limited to about 1500W with a typical mix.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Ok, great.

    I ordered the following:
    New Apex with two Wav units to replace my Apex classic and my three ET MP10's and my Gyre.
    Apex ATO to replace my Tunze.
    Apex Auto Feeder
    Apex DOS with Reservoir to replace my Bubble Magus
    Two 150 watt Finnex titanium heaters to replace the one 300 watt Eheim I have right now.

    And a whole bunch of other stuff.

    My head is spinning on how I'm going to mount all this in my stand....

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