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Thread: What am I doing wrong?!

  1. #1
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    What am I doing wrong?!

    I have tried all sorts of combinations, but can't get my apex to read my push button as closed. Can someone help?IMG_20190111_214310.jpg

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    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Post any documentation you received with the pushbutton.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brandonrush1 View Post
    That diagram is incorrect for the way the BOB operates. Connect red and black to your power source and connect C and NO to your BOB.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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    That seems to get it working, however right as it goes off it clicks right back on. Thanks for the help

    - - - Updated - - -

    It looks like if I hold the button down it remains off. But the second inlet go, back on.

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    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brandonrush1 View Post
    That seems to get it working, however right as it goes off it clicks right back on. Thanks for the help

    - - - Updated - - -

    It looks like if I hold the button down it remains off. But the second inlet go, back on.
    The normal method of just relating to the switch state does not work with momentary push buttons. What exactly do you want the behavior to be?

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    I'm trying to set one to engage a feed mode and another to turn on and off lights

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    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    The one you want to use as a feed mode should be set like this where XX is your desired duration

    PushFeed
    Set OFF
    If Switchname CLOSED Then ON
    Min Time XXX:XX Then ON

    Add
    If Output PushFeed = ON Then OFF

    To things you want off.



    The toggling using a pushbutton is much more complicated and is better served with a toggle switch (or magnetic reed door switch if used for something like a cabinet light). The only way to do it is to use a short press to turn on and a long press to turn off and it requires several VOs.

    PBtoggleON
    Set OFF
    If Switchname CLOSED Then ON
    If Output PBlights = ON Then OFF
    Defer 000:05 Then OFF

    PBtoggleOFF
    Set OFF
    If Switchname CLOSED Then ON
    If Output PBlights = OFF Then OFF
    Defer 000:03 Then ON
    Defer 000:05 Then OFF

    PBlights
    If Output PBtoggleON = ON Then ON
    If Output PBtoggleOFF = ON Then OFF

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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    Interesting, this greatly helps. Think you're the only one ever helping on here.

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    Frequent Visitor rkpetersen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post

    The toggling using a pushbutton is much more complicated and is better served with a toggle switch (or magnetic reed door switch if used for something like a cabinet light). The only way to do it is to use a short press to turn on and a long press to turn off and it requires several VOs.
    zombie, I was thinking about getting a few latching illuminated pushbuttons. With the correct wiring, would they be expected to function like a typical toggle switch or magnetic switch (and therefore not require a lot of additional coding to operate?) Something like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...5RP7P8OE&psc=1

    I thought this should work as an on/off toggle (not wired as picture there though), but I could be missing something.

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    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkpetersen View Post
    zombie, I was thinking about getting a few latching illuminated pushbuttons. With the correct wiring, would they be expected to function like a typical toggle switch or magnetic switch (and therefore not require a lot of additional coding to operate?) Something like this:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...5RP7P8OE&psc=1

    I thought this should work as an on/off toggle (not wired as picture there though), but I could be missing something.
    Yes.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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    Frequent Visitor rkpetersen's Avatar
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    Thanks for the confirmation.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkpetersen View Post
    Thanks for the confirmation.

    These will probably work a lot better since it's a push latch button.

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    Frequent Visitor rkpetersen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brandonrush1 View Post
    These will probably work a lot better since it's a push latch button.
    That was my thinking, and why I was looking at these rather than the momentary contact kind.

    The one thing I'm not sure of is, with the switch I linked to, whether I can have the light ring dark when the button isn't pressed and lit when it is pressed, without also sending 24V into the switch circuit. From what I can see, I'd have to wire it so that the light would be lit constantly, which isn't really what I want to happen.

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    Frequent Contributor zombie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rkpetersen View Post
    That was my thinking, and why I was looking at these rather than the momentary contact kind.

    The one thing I'm not sure of is, with the switch I linked to, whether I can have the light ring dark when the button isn't pressed and lit when it is pressed, without also sending 24V into the switch circuit. From what I can see, I'd have to wire it so that the light would be lit constantly, which isn't really what I want to happen.
    Yes. Wire one set like it shows in the picture and wire the other set NO and C into the BOB.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  16. #16
    Frequent Visitor rkpetersen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zombie View Post
    Yes. Wire one set like it shows in the picture and wire the other set NO and C into the BOB.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    Oh right - the C is also duplicated. For some reason I had thought there'd be only one and didn't look at that one image closely enough.

    Nice.

    Thanks again!

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkpetersen View Post
    Oh right - the C is also duplicated. For some reason I had thought there'd be only one and didn't look at that one image closely enough.

    Nice.

    Thanks again!
    Did you end up picking up these buttons? I just got two today and am trying to replicate the push turn the led on/ off when not pushed.

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    Frequent Visitor rkpetersen's Avatar
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    I did order several but haven't received them yet. But here's how I'd wire it first trial run. Incoming power, typically red lead, to the left C terminal. Join the left NO and + terminals by soldering a short segment of wire between them. Ground, black to - as usual. The two switch leads then go on the other pair of C and NO terminals. I think that will work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkpetersen View Post
    I did order several but haven't received them yet. But here's how I'd wire it first trial run. Incoming power, typically red lead, to the left C terminal. Join the left NO and + terminals by soldering a short segment of wire between them. Ground, black to - as usual. The two switch leads then go on the other pair of C and NO terminals. I think that will work.

    So I think I'm IMG_20190117_195210.jpgfollowing you, I got the power on off for the push button working and here's how I've got them wired now. However I can't seem to get a closed switch.

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    Frequent Visitor rkpetersen's Avatar
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    The illuminating ring light must be powered, but no power should be fed into the switch circuit. So -

    Edit:

    Left and right based on your picture here.

    Starting with the illuminating switch.

    Left WHITE wire must go to the positive pole of 24 VDC or less power supply. NOT the BOB! Black lead goes to the negative or ground pole of the DC power supply.

    The pin underlying the RED wire must be soldered to the pin of the adjacent LEFT BLUE wire. Or I suppose you could just use a wire nut to connect the two wires themselves, but only to each other!

    Now, from the breakout box, the black wire you have there will attach to the RIGHT WHITE wire from the switch. (That is, attach it to the white wire that isn't attached to power.)

    Finally, from the breakout box, the red wire you have will attach to the RIGHT BLUE wire from the switch.

    The two GREEN wires, (maybe RED wire, LEFT BLUE wire if pins soldered) will have nothing attached to them. I would cap them off individually.

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    Thank you, sorry I'm quite new to these push buttons. I'll let you know how it works out.

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    Frequent Visitor rkpetersen's Avatar
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    If you have an EB832 power bar, it's fairly easy to supply power to these light rings and other DC devices by wiring the power terminals (left white positive and black negative, in your case) to one of these, and then plugging that into one of the 24 VDC ports on the energy bar. It's not the most efficient use of these switchable programmable ports since incoming power to the light rings doesn't need to be turned on and off at all, but if not otherwise using them, just set the corresponding Apex tile to ON and leave it that way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rkpetersen View Post
    If you have an EB832 power bar, it's fairly easy to supply power to these light rings and other DC devices by wiring the power terminals (left white positive and black negative, in your case) to one of these, and then plugging that into one of the 24 VDC ports on the energy bar. It's not the most efficient use of these switchable programmable ports since incoming power to the light rings doesn't need to be turned on and off at all, but if not otherwise using them, just set the corresponding Apex tile to ON and leave it that way.
    You can't tell from my picture, but that's exactly what's I'm using. I have it off now for safety reasons until I can get it wir d correctly lol

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    Nevermind just didn't give it enough time to refresh, looks like we're good to go!

    Quote Originally Posted by rkpetersen View Post
    The illuminating ring light must be powered, but no power should be fed into the switch circuit. So -

    Edit:

    Left and right based on your picture here.

    Starting with the illuminating switch.

    Left WHITE wire must go to the positive pole of 24 VDC or less power supply. NOT the BOB! Black lead goes to the negative or ground pole of the DC power supply.

    The pin underlying the RED wire must be soldered to the pin of the adjacent LEFT BLUE wire. Or I suppose you could just use a wire nut to connect the two wires themselves, but only to each other!

    Now, from the breakout box, the black wire you have there will attach to the RIGHT WHITE wire from the switch. (That is, attach it to the white wire that isn't attached to power.)

    Finally, from the breakout box, the red wire you have will attach to the RIGHT BLUE wire from the switch.

    The two GREEN wires, (maybe RED wire, LEFT BLUE wire if pins soldered) will have nothing attached to them. I would cap them off individually.

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