What are the best water level switches people have used?

[thermoJoe]

Hi all,

I have used numerous float switches for controlling ATO, etc. but inevitably they get hung up. I have multiple hardware and software redundancies using the Apex controller, so it has never been a problem when the main level switch fails. However, it would be nice to use a switch that is more robust to fouling. I don't mind spending a fair amount on just the switch.

Some of the options I've found so far:
1) optical (such as http://www.gemssensors.com/Products/...s-Level-Switch)

2) Capacitance (such as http://www.omega.com/pptst/LVC101_102_103_104.html)

3) Acoustic (such as http://www.gemssensors.com/en/Produc...onant-ExOsense)

I'm sure there are a few others. All of these require some external power, but that's fine. Under $40 would be nice, but anything you have successfully used I'd be interested in.

Any suggestions from what you have had success with for a level switch with no moving parts?

cheers
-joe

[Alain B]

I use Avast water level presurre switch , not a single problem with them for years .

Alain

[RussM]

I've never had a float switch get stuck, but I do clean them about quarterly. I just remove the C-clip, remove the float and clean the parts with a soft toothbrush; I use a small tubing brush to clean the center of the float itself. And I test afterward to make sure I put the float back on with the proper orientation.

The challenge with the types of sensors you linked is the DIY effort required.

[zombie]

I've never had a float switch get stuck, but I do clean them about quarterly. I just remove the C-clip, remove the float and clean the parts with a soft toothbrush; I use a small tubing brush to clean the center of the float itself. And I test afterward to make sure I put the float back on with the proper orientation.

The challenge with the types of sensors you linked is the DIY effort required.

Same here. Regular floats cleaned regularly and I havent had a problem for 2 years. I do also use stuck switch detection algorithms so I am more comfortable in case one ever does stick.

You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can PROVE it mathematically.

[iamchadster]

Same here. Regular floats cleaned regularly and I havent had a problem for 2 years. I do also use stuck switch detection algorithms so I am more comfortable in case one ever does stick.

You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can PROVE it mathematically.

Zombie, could you expand a little on your stuck switch algorithm? Not to get too far off of topic, but might be something I'd like to add.

[jrlamountain]

I do the same thing
Make a vo with something like this
If switch x is open then on
Differ x time

Then reference it on ur email or alarm so if it's on u know I have mine set to turn off the ato pump if it runs for more then 3 mins at a time


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[thermoJoe]

I'll take a look into pressure transducers, thanks Alain.

And yes, I regularly clean the float switches. In fact I just cleaned them last week and one stuck yesterday. Could be that they are not very good quality. I am thinking about trying a stainless steal one, or at least ones that cost more than $5.

I use a backup float switch, a one-time ATO limit on the pump, a max vol on the ATO pump, and pH shutoff on ATO (it passes through a kalk reactor), so I have yet to have a problem with an ATO fill in 3 yr. This is also how I know how often i get a stuck float switch.

I'm really only interested in switch hardware people have or do use. This is the DIY forum, so I thought there would be a bunch of people that have tried all kinds of fun things, like radar, ultrasonics, lasers, bionic eyeballs, etc.

[Alain B]

I'll take a look into pressure transducers, thanks Alain.

And yes, I regularly clean the float switches. In fact I just cleaned them last week and one stuck yesterday. Could be that they are not very good quality. I am thinking about trying a stainless steal one, or at least ones that cost more than $5.

I use a backup float switch, a one-time ATO limit on the pump, a max vol on the ATO pump, and pH shutoff on ATO (it passes through a kalk reactor), so I have yet to have a problem with an ATO fill in 3 yr. This is also how I know how often i get a stuck float switch.

I'm really only interested in switch hardware people have or do use. This is the DIY forum, so I thought there would be a bunch of people that have tried all kinds of fun things, like radar, ultrasonics, lasers, bionic eyeballs, etc.

I have 4 Avast pressure switch , never had to touch any of them over a few years : no cleaning , never get stuck or anything similar . No moving part near the water : only air pressure in a little tube with a micro-switch at the other end connected to a BOB . Very simple and very neat .

Alain

[Long Island Camper]

I use 6 of these. http://www.aquahub.com/store/madisonms8000.html

2 of each go in my top off can to alert me when it's either empty or full. The same goes for my new saltwater can so there are two in there as well. The other two are in my sump. One for my normal sump level and the second as a backup.

Tank has been up and running for over 3 years now with no issue with the switches. I haven't cleaned them once. Two of the switches are obviously submerged in water almost 100% of the time since they are at the bottom of my storage cans. I did run the wires for each float switch through tubing and I attached the tubing to the threads at the top of the float switch and then used some aquarium silicone to make it water tight. The end of the tubes all come out of the water line so neither the wires not the top of the float switch gets wet.

[wbrejnia]

Hi Joe,

I just bought this water sensor. It works so far on my PM1 digital input.

http://www.flairsecurity.com/0/1000-h2o

No moving parts, and LIFETIME GUARANTEE. Runs on any voltage from 5 to 24 VDC.

Here is spec Sheet. Industrial Quality. Says it handles harsh Environments.
http://www.flairsecurity.com/wp-cont...08/1000H20.pdf


Got it for $12.99 from this Canadian Supplier. https://www.aartech.ca/vip1000-h2o-f...vdc-white.html

Wally

[RussM]

I just bought this water sensor. It works so far on my PM1 digital input.

http://www.flairsecurity.com/0/1000-h2o

That's not meant for use as a level sensor - it is a leak/flood detector. It probably won't last long if constantly/frequently exposed to saltwater. And it probably won't work at all with RO/DI water.

[wbrejnia]

Hi,

I definitely would NOT put the water_detect sensor in SALT water tank. It has 4 Metal contacts, and you would need to run a COPPER Wire to connect it, which is a no-no for Reef aquairum.

However, I just tested the water Sensor with RO/DI water. TDS 0. It works.

I was planning on using it for RO reservoir top up level detect. Can't see any harm.

[thermoJoe]

Hi Joe,

I just bought this water sensor. It works so far on my PM1 digital input.

http://www.flairsecurity.com/0/1000-h2o


Wally

Thanks Wally, That is at least in the direction that I'm looking for, but I would agree with the previous poster as well as with you that it probably wouldn't be good being submerged in SW, and that is the requirement for my setup. I'm surprised it works in DI. Looks like it could be used as it is intended to; an inexpensive leak detector.

Keep posting suggestions and Thanks!!

[input80]

I have 4 Avast pressure switch , never had to touch any of them over a few years : no cleaning , never get stuck or anything similar . No moving part near the water : only air pressure in a little tube with a micro-switch at the other end connected to a BOB . Very simple and very neat .

Alain

Hi Alain,

Care to point me to this switch please?

[Alain B]

http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/pr...Switch#reviews

You can use a magnetic probe holder to hold those at the proper level , working great for years , never had to touch them .

Alain

[thermoJoe]

I like the pressure switch idea, so I ordered a few of these Dwyer Miniature Pressure Switches http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pr...ches/SeriesMDS), which can also be obtained from Amazon for about $20. They appear to be made by World Magnetics (http://www.designflexswitches.com/). There is another version that allows you to choose between NO and NC states and adjust pressure trigger (http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pr...eriesADPS-EDPS), but I did not order any of there (also on Amazon too).

Once I hook them up and test them out I'll report back.

I think conductivity would work the best, but I have yet to find anything cheap.
Thanks for the input!
-joe

[Midnightt]

Alain,

I did not know they sold them seperate like that. Only issue I have is that it is $67 for just a single switch! I think i paid $10 per switch. I have two issues with these and my setup though.

The person who added them to my sump didn't mount the low one low enough so it doesn't really do much for me. And, I can usually never remember what the normal position is on the sump. I hate that I can not remember if it should be normally open or closed.

I do have the pressure switch for my ATO though and their pump and I love it! The pump is slow enough where it could run for hours and it won't over fill me. And the pressure switch is about the only thing I've never had to touch a second time in my system. I did have to add a little coding to stop it from short cycling cause I must have had just enough level fluctuation in the sump that it would turn on and off all the time.

[Alain B]

If you look carefully , you will notice that this switch is a little more complicated then just a float . I am also pretty sure that if you talk to those guys at avast , they might be able to offer you a rebate of some kind .

Alain