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Thread: battery back up

  1. #26
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    Where would I do my research? Does neptune publish these specifications?

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by five.five-six View Post
    Where would I do my research? Does neptune publish these specifications?
    Neptune does not post these specs. You would need to look at acceptable specs for computer motherboards, microprocessors, PLCs, etc. to see what kind of ranges are acceptable with a given component price point and then regress the information to see what you would expect the apex to fit plus a factor of safety. The research is not trivial or easy to find.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  3. #28
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    Will the supplemental 12V power port even power the base unit or is it just for monitoring line voltage when the EB8 is connected to a UPS?

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by five.five-six View Post
    Will the supplemental 12V power port even power the base unit or is it just for monitoring line voltage when the EB8 is connected to a UPS?
    It does both.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  5. #30
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    Neptune support reported that 14.2 volt float voltage is too high.

    I’m going to try this device and I will report back with either smoke or sucsess.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by five.five-six View Post
    Neptune support reported that 14.2 volt float voltage is too high.

    I’m going to try this device and I will report back with either smoke or sucsess.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    While I can't speak for Neptune engineering directly, I would assume you conservatively need to maintain utility side specifications of +- 10% of nominal 12V since that is the minimum a wall supply must meet. It's possible those bounds are higher, but you would want confirmation from neptune.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  7. #32
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    Have you ever measured a 12V wall wart? They are all over the map. Could be 11V could be 15V but usually under 13V with just a few ma of load. I’ll set it to 12V and verify output with a fluke DMM. I would probably be fine @ the float voltage but this thing is cheep and it’s n abundance of caution.

    Another plus is that it has a USB power port so now I can ditch the wall wart for my WiFi adapter and have my WiFi adapter on battery as is my router and modem. Win-Win-Win.

  8. #33
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    Warning!!


    So, the USB port on that converter is not 5V. It’s whatever output you have the thing adjusted to. If you have it set much above 6-7 volts it will smoke your cellphone or whatever you connect to it. I see nowhere in the standard Engrish documentation where the USB plug is specified at 5V or system voltage. It just doesn’t say so I checked with my DMM

    Everything else is great! Powers the Apex nicely and my circulation pump keeps running. The LED strip lights look great under the stand and makes doing things down there a lot easier

    B5A66A02-C4DD-4EDF-92EF-1F597532681B.jpeg

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by five.five-six View Post
    Warning!!


    So, the USB port on that converter is not 5V. It’s whatever output you have the thing adjusted to. If you have it set much above 6-7 volts it will smoke your cellphone or whatever you connect to it. I see nowhere in the standard Engrish documentation where the USB plug is specified at 5V or system voltage. It just doesn’t say so I checked with my DMM

    Everything else is great! Powers the Apex nicely and my circulation pump keeps running. The LED strip lights look great under the stand and makes doing things down there a lot easier

    B5A66A02-C4DD-4EDF-92EF-1F597532681B.jpeg
    Aquabus is 12V. What the guy was referring to was using a 12V battery backup but it is questionable what a safe trickle charge voltage is because the specs aren't published.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by five.five-six View Post
    Have you ever measured a 12V wall wart? They are all over the map. Could be 11V could be 15V but usually under 13V with just a few ma of load. I’ll set it to 12V and verify output with a fluke DMM. I would probably be fine @ the float voltage but this thing is cheep and it’s n abundance of caution.

    Another plus is that it has a USB power port so now I can ditch the wall wart for my WiFi adapter and have my WiFi adapter on battery as is my router and modem. Win-Win-Win.
    I was referring to the wall not the DC output.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  11. #36
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    I just got this how exactly did you set it up?
    I also have a eco tech back up to power 2 mp10s
    What do you power with this? Can you tell the apex to power a core on the lowest setting and 1 heater?
    I live in Southern California so actually a heater wouldn’t be used much demand

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgarcia View Post
    I just got this how exactly did you set it up?
    I also have a eco tech back up to power 2 mp10s
    What do you power with this? Can you tell the apex to power a core on the lowest setting and 1 heater?
    I live in Southern California so actually a heater wouldn’t be used much demand
    Use a UPS. It will save you a major headache and make sure your router and modem are on one too so you can receive alerts. Don't bother with the heater. Even if you don't expect it to be on that much, a 200W heater will exhaust a consumer grade UPS in less than 30 minutes.

    Here is a set up example an how two presentation.

    https://forum.neptunesystems.com/sho...n-at-MACNA2013

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  13. #38
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    alright so i have 3 1000 ups coming 1 for my internet and 1 each for my 2 eb8s. given the size this is all that i can fit in my apex cabinet. so have basically 2000va what systems is recommended for 8 hrs run time. "note i also have the eco tech back up for my power heads so power wont be needed there" unless their is a way to detect no power to the power heads? then i can turn them on
    i figured i can turn the return pump onto its minimal setting "cor20"
    heater?
    skimmer?
    my ato is controlled via 1/4 inch solenoid valve and optical sensors so i think this is a must as well. also my ro station has its own fmm module it will need power as well... shoot its 35 feet away. maybe i will just tell it normally open incase of a power outage. its only there incase of a leak detection and it will shut off water from the house

    i live in socal really the only time we get a power outage is during summer or someone crashes into a power pole. takes them about 8 hrs to fix

    oh and is there a way to hook up a expansion battery to the ups? just a thought. im getting the cyber power ones

  14. #39
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    Skimmer isn't necessary and will reduce backup time quite a bit if it isn't a really low wattage. Heaters should not be run on backup.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  15. #40
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    ok. skimmer is a core 15. i read that it would be good to help gas exchange. i will keep the heater off. i can always manually turn it on if temp drops to low

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgarcia View Post
    ok. skimmer is a core 15. i read that it would be good to help gas exchange. i will keep the heater off. i can always manually turn it on if temp drops to low
    If it's controllable, running at a low intensity will help gas exchange without hurting runtime too much.

    You might be an engineer if...You have no life and can prove it mathematically.

  17. #42
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    There is an alternative if the pump is not controllable. Assuming you have a way to detect loss of power (aux power supply or eb8 not on UPS) you can do the following:

    SKIMMER

    Fallback ON
    OSC 000:00/005:00/025:00 Then ON
    If Power EBx 000 ON Then ON
    ...

    So the 'default' behavior would be to operate the pump for 5 minutes out of every 30 minutes. However, as long as power from mains is available, it will override and run the outlet as constant ON. Any other override conditions such as Feed can be included at the end.

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